There is one year, we discovered Pied de Biche, a young brand that was then directed his first shoes with a crowdfunding campaign. At the time, it offered only Chelsea boots, but declined in several colors, for both men and for women. As we mentioned during our test, the brand will launch later a strong first derby model of success. But today, we decided to return to this pair of Chelsea boots which had seduced us. Foot Biche has released a new version that is sufficiently different from the original that we decided to dedicate a new test.
It was created in 2015 by two friends (Jerome and Matthew) wanting to achieve a common project. Their idea of launching a brand shoes will be validated by a successful first fundraising on Ulule. Anxious to offer a quality product, the pair will select their raw materials and find a real know-how to manufacture their shoes. As such, hides come exclusively from Italy and their production facility is located in Portugal. Their creations are young, stylish and stand out in particular by the systematic use of two-tone. The brand also extends its offer with a range of small leather goods and also manufactured in France socks.
These new Chelsea boots are now available in smooth or nubuck leather and new colors. The elastic is completely new with its textured surface so “honeycomb”. If aesthetically shape resembles that of the first generation has been improved for more comfort. Welt which was present only on the front of the shoe runs the entire contour of the shoe. At the time, the sole that was stuck now sees meeting by Blake stitching. It is also fitted with a gum and inside insert, a heel comfort was added in addition to the insole. Finally, the spur has been strengthened to ensure better maintenance over time.
For this test, we ordered a pair of Chelsea boots cognac color with a blue elastic. The shoes come in a large white box signed with the brand logo. Inside, they are carefully packed in tissue paper for decoration “deer heads.” It also finds a postcard of a beautiful forest landscape (probably a reference to deer). If the first version was already a good impression, it offers even better made at first.
From the start, there is the lovely rounded shape of shoes. On closer look, the leather is beautiful, its texture is fine and even, we find no mark on its surface. In a more general way, this cognac color is really beautiful with its slightly shiny appearance according to light exposure. These Chelsea boots have a double feature: the use of an elastic color and a reminder leather strip on the back of the shoe. The texture in “honeycomb” elastic has a very graphic made, bringing more soul to the Crowbar.
The assembly of the different pieces of leather and elastic is through a brown stitching, chosen almost tone on tone. Fine and regular, the stitches seem at first glance perfectly executed. Looked at more closely, I nevertheless found that the wire protrudes slightly at the junction under the elastic, and the seams are sometimes not always parallel. It’s relatively trivial as they seem nevertheless solid, there are so unlikely that this remark when shoes are worn.
On this new version, the Chelsea boots feature a fully welted going around the shoe while previously, it surrounded the front of the shoe and ended at the beginning of the heel. This thin welt covered a beige brings a surplus of elegance to these Crowbar. Nevertheless it remains decorative Chelsea since these are assembled in Blake, ie by another seam which directly connects the outsole inside the shoes. Remember, the sole of the original release was just stuck.
Another notable part, the buttress. He is dressed in an elegant blue leather band, stitched sides and taking in sewing browsing the top of the shoe. This same buttress was strengthened compared to the original version, without however great firmness. But in any case, it offers better guarantees that these Chelsea boots will not come prematurely deform over the ports at this level.
Inside, one can see that the shoes were completely lined in a rather fine beige leather. The heel, the slides out was appropriate in a suede leather to better keep the foot. Regarding insole, it is relatively thick (about 2mm) and sees further enhanced by a heel of a millimeter thick, always aiming to improve the comfort of the shoe. Because every detail counts, we see the brand logo engraved on the bottom.
Point always critical when you discover a new pair of plus size boots. Getting closer, we discover the Blake stitching and a rubber insert ensures good adhesion without that we have to provide a passage to the shoemaker. The heel has an average size from a height of 2,3cm measure. It is made up of different leather pieces with beautiful shades in brown tones. Incidentally, the rubber bonbout allows him also to improve ride comfort and avoid the uncontrolled skidding.
For this test, I ordered a pair 42 which is my usual size. On many Chelsea boots, there are tabs that can get the shoes up to facilitate the passage of the foot. This is not the case here, so it’s a bit more athletic for shoes.Somebody who hid the shoehorn office (an investigation is in progress), I had to help me with my fingers (the old) to finalize. Fortunately, once strung shoes one has the satisfaction of being at ease there. At the first port, the foot is well maintained and the Chelsea boots are proving to be very comfortable. So they carve normally, although on its website the precise brand, “If you hesitate between sizes, choose the largest.”
In terms of style, with their fine form, as saying that wearing a fitting pants to the ankle is more than recommended. This fitting, I wear a fitted chino pants whose bottom is 18cm. In terms of the look as a whole, the Chelsea boots are the ideal partners in a casual dress / chic trousers type shirt, blazer.
If the first version we had seduced, cettes new Chelsea boots are even more successful aesthetically with the addition of an elastic effect “honeycomb” and a leather strip on the back of the shoe. They have a good balance between originality and elegance. But it is the quality that evolution is most striking. All is not perfect, especially at the seams but finishes a reasonable price (160 €), this pair of Crowbar offers great benefits: a sewn Blake, a reinforced heel counter, a real comfort at both and external of the insole. There is no denying the “doe” has really matured.
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