A week is it already from the Berlin fashion week, and while the entire fashion people just put all eyes on Paris and the fine art of cutting the “Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture” is, are we today still once fix look back and highlight three labels that could hardly be more different: a Perret Schaad, who not only carefully made with their woven wire earrings in , but above all with their pyrite colored creations, the description “flowing materials” were still even at the top. On the other hand saw gave there but also the Berliner (or shall we say: Swiss) reply to Vêtements, namely Julia Seemann collection, which catapults us right back in the 90s. Vladimir Karaleev should at this point of course not be missing – and exactly with this we begin men’s and his twisted creations:
Vladimir Karaleev / /
inside out – upside down: Vladimir Karaleev overrides on the familiar manner the rules of fashion – and permeates his own thing as always: tops once turned over, worn coats on the left, all sewn together wrong and equipped of course with an open seam. Also the master opts for the deconstruction and the imprecision in the coming winter squares – and functional clothing! Occasionally, the architecture of the garment is fashioned, where the surfaces are ornamented by abstract functional elements. Patterns arise from the alienated construction elements, if be shifted about hems or collars vice versa.
Classic coats, jackets and shirts are made of coarse woollen fabrics such as Boucle, Tweed or wool coat, and contrast with the fluent falling silk fabrics of dresses, skirts, and pants of the collection. The color palette ranges from beige gray to dark green and black and is complemented by a white and blue plaid.
Perret Schaad / /
Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad are the wife power team of the German fashion industry, partner-in-crime and fully share the love to their label and their family. The Moms of each two years did it, to remain faithful to their line and still an ACE after coming from the sleeves to shake season after season: with the fine sense of details, choice of material and colour. Your personal magic tool for a successful collection: The proximity to the art and the proximity to the women, for which they design. And so has grown quite obviously also with Johanna and Tutia Perret Schaad’s fashion over the years, has adapted to the changed circumstances, is sometimes may be less dramatic than even a few seasons ago, for possibly but more practical – without being functional.
So surprised the two not only with an exciting new print, but above all with a flowing material that played perfectly with the light and again put a Crown on the typical flowing materials of the label.
Julia Seemann wants much – and she gets it back: internationally alerted the Swiss namely thanks to its extroverted autumn/winter 2017 collection on himself. Already for the twelfth time ELLE and Mercedes-Benz have teamed up to promote international talents of the fashion scene. In recent years, newcomers such as paper London, Iris van Herpen, Annelie Schubert have emerged in – and Julia Seemann must register with now in this series. It takes the young designer with their creations anyway, skillfully with off-white, Vêtements and Balenciaga: streetwear meets oversized, designed Workwear power blends with feminine silhouettes. So much is likely to be set: Julia Seemann we will hear quite sure much more.
the expressive designs of H/W were collection by the way, with the assistance of graphic designer Vaughan Oliver designed and understood as a tribute to the 80s dark wave band XMAL Germany. The show was accompanied by a live performance of the Berlin techno duo sulfur yellow.
oversize silhouettes run through most of the fall/winter 2017 collection, ironically broken rhinestone jewelry and tight-fitting stretch Jersey dresses with motifs from mythology. Julia Seemann combines subcultural and nostalgic influences again in way typical for her with geometric and minimalist elements. Also, it uses elements from the classic work and everyday clothing by volume, colors, materials, prints and embroidery in a new context. This comes in wide shoulders, big patch pockets, long-cut coats and jackets and emphasised waists to express.